Autor Tema: Bateria de auto  (Leído 6816 veces)

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Re:Bateria de auto
« Respuesta #20 en: Octubre 29, 2011, 23:22:04 pm »
Gracias por la aclaración Foxbuster, acá encontré algo respecto de como calcularlo...en inglés pero que le hace el agua al pescado  ;)

Q: What's the biggest amp I can hook up to my car's electrical system?

A: Your car's alternator ampere rating determines how powerful an amplifier you can install. Multiply the ampere rating by 40%, and you'll get a rough idea of how much reserve current capacity your car's system has. Next, you'll need to calculate the approximate current draw of the amplifier you're considering installing.

To calculate the current draw of an amplifier, multiply the number of channels by the RMS watts per channel (a 2 channel amp rated at 300 watts RMS per channel would be 600 watts). Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency (600 watts X 2 = 1200 watts), then divide by the average output Voltage of an alternator, 13.8 volts (1200 divided by 13.8 = 87 amps). Since the average music signal requires about 1/3rd of the average power in a test tone, divide by 3 (87 amps divided by 3 = 29 amps). The result is the amplifier's approximate average current draw.

A fast-and-nasty way to ballpark an amplifier's current draw is to divide the total fuse value of the amp by two. For amplifiers with multiple fuses, the rating of all fuses provided with the amp must be added together. This will likely produce a significantly higher estimate than using the proper formula. Although inaccurate, this will err on the side of safety.

Finally, compare the amplifier's approximate current draw to your vehicle's reserve current capacity to determine if the electrical system can support the amplifier.

If all those numbers are a bit much, here's a simpler way to think about it: an alternator capable of producing 65 amperes is usually adequate for systems up to 270 X 2 watts RMS. A compact car with a 35-amp alternator can accommodate around 150 X 2 watts of power, while a Sport Utility with a 145-amp alternator can handle a 600 X 2 watt system. A capacitor can help if your system is drawing a little too much power. Car audio competitors often replace their vehicle's alternators with heavy-duty upgrades to accommodate big power demands.

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Re:Bateria de auto
« Respuesta #21 en: Octubre 30, 2011, 08:41:17 am »
Citar
harto raro me parece.. a mi ni con la bateria original del auto me sucedia eso
y eso que ando con

xenon bajas
xenon neblineros
amplificador con 5 canales todos usados
radio con pantalla de 7"


y en la noche en carretera o autopista ando con la radio fuerte y jamas he notado una baja en las luces, ahora con la bateria de 70Ah  menos
Quelo, si mal no recuerdo la batería original del Imprelanos era una Panasonic de 48Ah, sin embargo yo tampoco tuve problemas con el ampli de 5 canales.
Arrepiéntanse gusanos pecadores...

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Re:Bateria de auto
« Respuesta #22 en: Octubre 30, 2011, 09:25:23 am »
Gracias por la aclaración Foxbuster, acá encontré algo respecto de como calcularlo...en inglés pero que le hace el agua al pescado  ;)

Q: What's the biggest amp I can hook up to my car's electrical system?

A: Your car's alternator ampere rating determines how powerful an amplifier you can install. Multiply the ampere rating by 40%, and you'll get a rough idea of how much reserve current capacity your car's system has. Next, you'll need to calculate the approximate current draw of the amplifier you're considering installing.

To calculate the current draw of an amplifier, multiply the number of channels by the RMS watts per channel (a 2 channel amp rated at 300 watts RMS per channel would be 600 watts). Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency (600 watts X 2 = 1200 watts), then divide by the average output Voltage of an alternator, 13.8 volts (1200 divided by 13.8 = 87 amps). Since the average music signal requires about 1/3rd of the average power in a test tone, divide by 3 (87 amps divided by 3 = 29 amps). The result is the amplifier's approximate average current draw.

A fast-and-nasty way to ballpark an amplifier's current draw is to divide the total fuse value of the amp by two. For amplifiers with multiple fuses, the rating of all fuses provided with the amp must be added together. This will likely produce a significantly higher estimate than using the proper formula. Although inaccurate, this will err on the side of safety.

Finally, compare the amplifier's approximate current draw to your vehicle's reserve current capacity to determine if the electrical system can support the amplifier.

If all those numbers are a bit much, here's a simpler way to think about it: an alternator capable of producing 65 amperes is usually adequate for systems up to 270 X 2 watts RMS. A compact car with a 35-amp alternator can accommodate around 150 X 2 watts of power, while a Sport Utility with a 145-amp alternator can handle a 600 X 2 watt system. A capacitor can help if your system is drawing a little too much power. Car audio competitors often replace their vehicle's alternators with heavy-duty upgrades to accommodate big power demands.

Buen artículo, que proporciona orientaciones numéricas . La frase marcada al principio aclara bastante:"Your car's alternator ampere rating determines how powerful an amplifier you can instal." (La cifra de amperes del alternador de su auto determina que tan potente amplificador puede usted instalar).

En ninguna parte del artículo se menciona la batería.......

Aunque se me ocurre una forma en que la batería podría afectar algo: una batería descargada o en mal estado demanda mas corriente del generador y por lo tanto deja menos para los demás consumos. En otras palabras, el generador se vería alcanzado mas fácilmente por las demandas de corriente del audio.   
« Última modificación: Octubre 30, 2011, 09:32:49 am por Foxbuster »
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    A la memoria de Alex Feliú a.k.a Rommel